The textile market is dominated by knitting and woven fabrics that are used to produce everything from everyday wear to high end fashion. Understanding the difference between the two will help you make smarter choices whether you’re designing, sewing or shopping. In this post, we’ll take a look at the basics of knit and woven fabrics: how they’re made, what they feel like, how they stretch, and how they perform in terms of strength. You’ll also learn how to easily identify them and what fabric to choose for your purpose. Keep reading!
What Is Knit Fabric?
It is a textile consisting of interlocked loops of yarn. It is created by pulling loops through other loops either by hand or with a machine. They loop and form rows and columns that interlock. This looped structure allows the fabric to stretch and soften. You likely wear it unnoticed, such as t-shirts, hoodies, leggings, and sweaters.
Types of Knit Construction
Weft Knitting (Horizontal Loops)
In weft knitting, loops are created from the side to the side. You make one row, go to the next. This is the most common type of knit and include jersey and rib knits. This is what you do by hand if you’re into DIY knitting. It is stretchy and easy to unravel so you can adjust it as needed.
Warp Knitting (Vertical Loops)
Warp knitting works differently. This runs vertically down the fabric. Machines do it and it is more stable than weft knitting. Lingerie, swimwear, and sportswear will all have warp knits. You will love it if you want something that will stretch but won’t unravel.
Common Knit Fabrics (with brief explanations)
Jersey Knit
Jersey knit fabric is light and soft. You will also see one side that is smooth and one that has tiny loops. It drapes well and is ideal for t-shirts and dresses. This is a great go to if you want comfort.
Rib Knit
Vertical lines have been raised on rib knit fabric. It’s super stretchy and snug. You frequently see it in cuffs, collars, or waistbands. Rib knit is good if you need stretch that snaps back into shape.
Interlock Knit
Jersey is the smoother, denser version of interlock. They are both flat and soft on both sides. It is lighter than jersey but feels thicker and stronger. It sells well for baby clothes and basic tees.
French Terry
One side of french terry has loops and the other is smooth. It’s breathable but still cozy. It shows up in casual pullovers, shorts, loungewear. It keeps you comfortable but doesn’t overheat.
Fleece Knit
Fleece knit begins with a basic knit and is brushed to produce fuzz. It makes it warm and soft. Fleece is what you’ll wear when it’s cold out, like sweatshirts, jackets. It’s a winter favorite.
Tricot
Tricot is a warp knit; smooth or ribbed on one side. It’s thin and has a little bit of sheen to it. It turns up in lingerie and linings. Tricot delivers if you want something sleek and lightweight.
Raschel
Tricot is lighter in weight and more texture than Raschel knit. It can mimic lace or mesh. It holds its shape well so you see it in dresses, athletic wear and decorative fabrics. Select it if you are looking for durability and style.
Cable Knit
It has raised patterns which are roughly roped twisted patterns. These are the crossings of stitches over each other. It’s chockful of warm, cozy feeling and is perfect paired with a chunky knitted sweater. Cable knit has it if you are looking for that classic sweater look.
Ponte Knit
Ponte is a double knit fabric with a thick weave. It combines stretch with structure. Leggings, blazers and fitted skirts are where you’ll find it. It’s comfortable and it smooths your silhouette.
Velour Knit
Velour fabric has a short fur-like texture that creates an opulent touch. The fabric fits like velvet yet stretches easily. You find velour knit in comfortable clothes like pajamas and sportswear plus dance outfits.
Double Knit
Double knit refers to fabric that contains two separate layers. The surfaces run flat and support a steady structure. It maintains its shape more effectively than single knits because of its denser structure.
Jacquard Knit
You can see detailed designs directly woven into Jacquard knits. The fabric design may display different floral patterns, geometric shapes or brand logos. The woven patterns enhance fabric design while eliminating the need for printed graphics or embroidery.
Purl Knit
Purl knit creates small raised areas on its face and back surfaces. Basic knit stitches run opposite to this formation. You will find this texture in knitwear designs and accessory pieces. This technique creates handmade effects that add depth to fabric materials.
What Is Woven Fabric?
Woven fabric is a textile created by interweaving two sets of yarn: the warp and the weft which are at right angles to each other. Warp yarns run vertically and the weft yarns run horizontally. Up close you can see the checkerboard structure in which the threads intersect in an over under pattern. This interlacing provides a firm and durable fabric surface. Manufacturers use looms to produce woven fabric. Woven fabrics are used everywhere from casual to more structured pieces such as coats, pants, upholstery and more.
Basic Weaving Structures
Plain Weave
It is the most straightforward and most balanced weave. In the plain weave, the weft thread goes over one warp thread and under the next. This gives you a sturdy flat fabric. This is often found in lightweight materials like chiffon, muslin and poplin. Plain weave is your go to if you want versatility.
Twill Weave
Twill weave produces a diagonal pattern on the fabric. In this case, the weft thread crosses one or more warp threads, then under two or more. The weaving style of this fabric provides you with a stronger, more flexible cloth that resists wrinkles. The classic examples are denim and corduroy. Twill weave is the one if you are looking for durability with texture.
Satin Weave
The surface of satin weave is smooth and shiny. This occurs when four or more weft threads float over one warp thread (or vice versa). The reason for this is that these long floats have less friction between yarns. It drape well and feel luxurious. Think taffeta and velvet as practical examples. Satin weave is perfect if you’re sewing for elegance.
Common Woven Fabrics
Denim
One of the redeeming features of denim is its rugged texture and its blue tone. It is a twill weave with indigo dyes on the warp threads and white weft threads. You put it on every day in jeans and jackets.
Chambray
Chambray is the same denim but it feels lighter and smoother. It is a plain weave and the warp is dyed and the weft is white. Chambray is a good choice if you want something casual and breathable.
Flannel
Plain and twill weave can be used to make flannel. It’s brushed to feel extra touchy. It’s a cozy thing to wear in cooler seasons because it traps your warmth.
Poplin
It is a plain weave with fine warp yarns and coarse weft yarns. It feels smooth, crisp and lightweight. It is something you’ll choose for shirts, dresses, and uniforms.
Chiffon
Chiffon is sheer and lightweight with a slightly rough feel. It’s plain weave made from tightly twisted yarns. It will work great for flowing blouses, scarves, and eveningwear.
Taffeta
When you move, the taffeta feels crisp and makes a slight rustling sound. The yarns are twisted before being woven on a plain weave. It lends its body and a structured finish, which is great for gowns and skirts.
Corduroy
Corduroy is distinguished by its raised ridges or “wales.” Made in a twill weave with more yarns that make up vertical ribs. First of all, it’s warm, tough, and stylish on jackets or trousers.
Muslin
Muslin is soft, plain-woven cotton. It’s also used for fashion mock ups (toiles) or lightweight clothing. Muslin is a good go to fabric if you want a breathable fabric.
Velvet
Velvet has a soft plush pile. It’s made on a special loom that picks up two layers at once and cuts them apart. Plain, satin, or twill are all possible finishes for velvet.
Crêpe
Its surface is textured, slightly crinkled. The yarns that are used to make it are tightly twisted or crimped. The end result is crêpe in different weights, which are used for dresses and blouses, etc.
Georgette
Georgette is a crêpe fabric made of yarn with alternating twist. The fabric is woven in plain weave with a regular, matte grain. You will fall in love with its drape for dresses and sarees.
Buckram
Buckram is stiff and coarse. The fabric is a plain-weave that is often treated to keep its shape. If structure matters, you’ll see it inside hats, book covers, or costume accessories.
Cambric
Cambric is smooth, very fine, and closely woven. Plain weave and calendered (pressed) to a glossy surface. You will use it for shirts, handkerchiefs, or for children’s clothes.
Cheesecloth
Cheesecloth is loosely woven and gauzy. Made by plain weave and allows the liquid to go through easily. You will use it in a kitchen to strain, or in crafts.
Organza
Organza is sheer (transparent), stiff, and light. Made originally of silk, but these days it’s also made from polyester or nylon. When you want a touch of volume and shimmer on wedding dresses or decorations, you’ll use it.
Core Differences Between Knit and Woven Fabrics
Construction Technique
Knit Fabric
Looping yarns together makes them into knit fabrics. These loops give the structure a flexible, stretchable quality. But if you look under magnification at knit fabric, you’ll see rows of little V shaped stitches. In fact, it is these loops that allow knit fabrics to stretch easily and recover well after movement.
Woven Fabric
Interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles—warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal)—woven fabrics are made. The grid-like structure is formed by this over under pattern. When magnified, woven fabrics are seen to have a clear crisscross pattern. Woven fabrics are strong because of the tight interlacing.
Stretch and Flexibility
Knit Fabric
Natural stretch occurs in knit fabrics without need of additional fibers. 2 way or 4 way stretch is most common in knits and they stretch both horizontally and vertically. That’s a great reason why you’ll see knit in activewear, leggings, and in T-shirts — whatever you want it to move with.
Woven Fabric
On its own, woven fabric does not stretch very much. Manufacturers blend in elastic fibers such as elastane to provide stretch if needed. The stretch, however, is usually limited to one direction only. This minimal stretch works well for structured garments such as dress shirts or trousers.
Durability and Strength
Knit Fabric
Soft and flexible, but they can wear out quickly, knit fabrics are less durable. Repeated washing or abrasion can make the loops snag or pill over time. Knit offers comfort but won’t last as long in rough conditions.
Woven Fabric
These fabrics are much more durable than knit fabrics. They are more resistant to wear and tear especially in the high friction areas. For that reason, you will see woven fabrics used for outerwear, upholstery, and uniforms.
Appearance and Texture
Knit Fabric
Knitted fabrics seem relaxed and casual. Their surface tends to be a bit soft and sometimes textured and they appear to be a bit more matte. Wearing a knit garment, it drapes easily to your body’s shape.
Woven Fabric
Woven fabrics appear crisp and structured. Depending on the fiber, the surface is usually smoother and may have a slight sheen. This allows you to have a polished look that’s perfect for formal wear because they hold their shape better.
Comfort and Breathability
Knit Fabric
For everyday movement knit fabrics are more comfortable. They conform to your body, stretch as you need it, and breathe well, even in inverted postures. They are perfect for garments such as undergarments, workout wear and baby clothes.
Woven Fabric
Woven fabrics are less breathable and less flexible. But they are more structured and supportive. Woven is perfect when you want your clothing to retain its shape, such as in blazers or trousers.
Wrinkle Resistance
Knit Fabric
Knits naturally resist wrinkles. They’re bouncy — you can bunch them up or pack them in a bag and they’ll normally bounce back. That makes one less thing you have to worry about when traveling or busy.
Woven Fabric
In contrast to these wovens, wrinkle easily. Often, they look their best when they are ironed or steamed. If wrinkle free is a must then you need to follow for the care routines on woven garments.
Ease of Sewing
Knit Fabric
Knit sewing takes a little practice. To prevent snagging the loops you’ll need a ballpoint needle, and to allow for some movement you’ll need a stretch stitch or a serger. Knits can stretch out or ripple without the right tools while sewing.
Woven Fabric
Wovens are more beginner-friendly. They’re easy to cut, stable, and don’t shift much under the needle. If this is your first time sewing, woven fabrics will make it easier.
Maintenance and Care
Knit Fabric
Knits are generally low maintenance. Most of them are easily washable and dryable, although some may stretch out or pill with repeated washing. Longer life is achieved by using gentle cycles and minimal harsh heat.
Woven Fabric
Washed wovens have a better shape hold. However, many require ironing to remove wrinkles. If you want crisp lines and long lasting form, woven is a good option but it may mean one or two extra steps in your laundry routine.
Applications and Usage
Where Knit Fabrics Excel
Knit fabrics are incredibly versatile. They can be easily spotted wearing casual wear like T-shirts, leggings, and underwear. These fabrics stretch and form to your body, which makes them ideal fabrics for body hugging garments. Knit materials also serve to benefit activewear with their flexibility and comfort, making it easy to move in. They are also found in soft furnishings such as blankets and socks where their soft texture adds to the comfort.
Where Woven Fabrics Excel
More formal and structured garments shine in woven fabrics. Woven fabrics provide the durability and structure that suits, trousers, blazers and dresses alike benefit from. They make for great upholstery, curtains, and linens with their crisp, polished look. As these fabrics hold their shape well, they are ideal for formal, tailored wear. Woven fabrics give any outfit an air of refinement, whether it’s for a meeting or jazzing up your home decor.
How to Tell Knit vs Woven Fabric (Identification Guide)
- Visual inspection: Look closely at the fabric. Woven fabrics have a criss cross of threads, whereas the knits produce a stretchy, interlocking pattern through the loops of knits.
- Stretch test: Gently stretch the fabric. 2 way stretch fabrics are woven fabrics and 4 way stretch fabrics (stretch both ways) are knits.
- Wrinkle test: Crumple the fabric in your hand. Knits tend to bounce back almost instantly and smooth out whereas the woven fabrics will continue to hold wrinkles.
- Edge fraying: Examine the edges. Interlaced threads make woven fabrics more prone to fraying than the same thread in knits, which curl around the edges.
- Magnifying glass or fabric testers: More closely look at the threads with a magnifying glass. It also will assist you in determining the knit loops or the woven thread.
Choosing Between Knit and Woven for Your Project
- End-Use: Choose knit fabrics for creating casual clothing like T-shirts and leggings. Woven fabrics produce high-quality results when used to create clothing items such as shirts jackets and dresses.
- Desired Drape/Fit: Knits create smooth movement and relaxed clothing features while woven materials produce structured performance.
- Durability/Care Expectations: Woven fabrics maintain their shape better than any other clothing application. Knit fabrics demand minimal upkeep yet they typically expand and shift their design from original patterns.
- Comfort Preferences: Warmer climates benefit from knit fabrics because they maintain a relaxed feeling and help reduce body heat. People use woven fabrics to make formal wear and garments for cold environments.
Designer’s Checklist
- Use Cases: Knits make top-quality clothes for everyday casual activities. These fabrics provide excellent material for creating formal business attire and stylish evening dresses while also making outstanding outerwear choices.
- Swatch Testing: Test fabric samples in multiple situations to make sure they meet your project requirements.
- Blending in Fashion Collections: You can mix these fabrics to design new fashion lines. Select knits for their stretch ability and choose wovens for their durable fibers.
Conclusion
Finally, it is important to know the differences between knit and woven fabrics so as to make smart decisions in fashion, sewing and shopping. Knit fabrics are flexible, comfortable, and stretchy for casual and activewear. However, woven fabrics offer structure, durability and elegance and they are ideal for formal wear and upholstery. With fabric types explored, you can set your design choices, sewing skills and clothing selections to the optimal fabric to match your projects and style requirements.
