Single Jersey Fabric vs Double Jersey Fabric

In today’s textile market, it is important to know that single jersey and double jersey fabric can impact the comfort, cost and style of garments. This provides you with the knowledge of how to make informed production or design decisions by knowing the differences. This guide covers both fabrics in detail. It will help you learn how they are made, which ones have unique features and when to use one over the other.  This article answers how to tell the difference between single or double jersey fabric whether you’re a manufacturer, designer, or curious buyer.

What is Single Jersey Fabric?

One set of needles is used to create a weft knit structure of single jersey fabric. This fabric is often made by flatbed knitting machines or circular knitting machines, depending on the volume of production. Double knit options are thicker and less flexible than single knitted fabric because the fabric is knit in a single layer.

This is a single needle system that makes loops and aligns into a technical face and technical back. You’ll find the front comes with a smooth V shaped knit pattern and the back features horizontal wave like loops.

Characteristics

Single jersey is easy to spot with its different front and back. The one directional loop structure is responsible for this difference. There’s one key trait to remember: It curls, or rather the edges will curl after cutting, this can make garment construction tricky if not handled.

Fabric feels lightweight and has excellent breathability / comfort. However, it has low extensibility and has less thickness than double knit fabrics. That translates to less structure and warmth and more relaxed drape.

Common Applications

Single jersey is a top choice if you are looking to create light, breathable clothing. This is used a lot in shirts like polos, T-shirts, tank tops and leggings. It’s great for everyday wear or activewear basics because it feels soft against the skin and contribute to easy movement.

What is Double Jersey Fabric?

Double jersey fabric is produced on two sets of needles, such that two yarns interlock from the front and back. The fabric is given a firm and stable structure by the dual-needle setup. This fabric is usually made from knitted materials on V-bed knitting machines or cylinder-dial circular machines with the capability of precision and uniformity. However, these machines also allow for more complex knit patterns like rib, interlock, purl, which gives you more flexibility in design and function.

Key Characteristics

If you’ll notice, the first thing about double jersey fabric is that face and back are smooth and look alike. Unlike single jersey, it does not curl at the edges, so you do not spend time and effort cutting and sewing.  It also has higher extensibility (more stretchability) which is what you want for a fitted garment. With the added thickness, your product actually feels more warm and has more body to it. Double jersey is balanced in structure and retains its shape well and resists distortion after multiple washes.

Common Applications

Double jersey fabric is used in garments where durability and warmth are important. Consider hoodies, jackets and layette items for infants (the pieces that benefit from structure and comfort). For heavy duty TShirts that need a clean finish and a minimal distortion, it’s also great. Double jersey is the fabric you want to use if your aim is for a garment that feels premium, that holds its shape and that can withstand wear.

Detailed Comparison: Single Jersey vs Double Jersey Fabric

Needles Used

The single jersey fabrics are produced on a flatbed machine using one set of needles. In terms of working with this fabric, you are dealing with a simpler knit. Double jersey fabrics on the other hand, need two sets of needles for a circular machine such as V-bed or cylinder dial. This dual needle system creates the capability of looped loops on both sides, creating a denser, more stable fabric structure.

Curling Tendency

Single jersey fabric can curl at the edges. The unbalanced loop structure allows you to see it rolling on the side because the loops pull more on one side than the other. Cutting and sewing can become complicated by this curling. However, double jersey is not subject to curling. Because the knit is symmetrical on both front and back, you won’t have the same edge distortion.

Face and Back Appearance

If you examine single jersey fabric, you can clearly see the difference between the face and the back. On the face there are vertical knit stitches (technical face) and on the back horizontal purl bumps (technical back). This looks weird, and it has an influence on your design options. Double jersey however, looks the same on both sides and is best if you want the same surface for reversible garments or premium designs.

Loop and Stitch Appearance

On the front, loop legs are visible in single jersey and loop heads and feet on the back. It’s why the front has that ‘V’ knit look and the back is bumpier. You’ll also see this in notation symbols where there are different stitch patterns for the front and back. Double jersey, however, exhibits symmetrical loop patterns on both sides and the appearance may be slightly different depending on the double knit type (rib, interlock or purl).

Fabric Appearance and Texture

The technical face has a V shaped pattern and the back side is wave like. Thanks to these textures, it’s very lightweight, breathable, but not very stable. Double jersey wins if you want a uniform look. This has an even, smooth appearance on both sides that improves texture and appearance on structured garments.

Tendency to Unravel

It is easy for single jersey fabrics to unravel from any end. The structure is loose because of the lack of interlocking stitches. It can fray if you aren’t careful when handling or sewing it. Double jersey is more secure. The looping structure, which links with the front and back layers, helps to make it harder to unravel. There are some types that are even locked completely.

Structure Balancing

With single jersey fabric you are working with a non balanced fabric. The loop tension is not symmetrical, curling and shape distortion occurs. It can limit its use in high precision garments. Double jersey has a balanced structure: both sides support each other. It results in better dimensional stability, so it is a good choice for quality apparel.

Extensibility

Single jersey stretches well but only about half as much as double jersey. Double jersey’s two needle system, and interlocked loops are twice as extensible, especially in the width. So, if stretch and flexibility are high up on your garment priority list (and they often are in activewear or fitted clothing), double jersey will be better for you.

Thickness

The thickness of single jersey is half that of double jersey. It uses less yarns and stitches, and that’s why. Double jersey is twice the thickness and provides more warmth and durability. You will often find it used on winter garments, on structured dresses, and on premium T shirts that require more body.

Machine Types Used

In general, you use flatbed machines to knit single jersey, which are inexpensive and easier to run. Double jersey is more complex and requires a V-bed or cylinder-dial machine that allows you to knit both sides on the same time. High quality double knit production requires these machines but they are more expensive.

Types and Variants

Most single jersey comes in plain knit forms. Great for lightweight T-shirts and underwear. However, double jersey includes rib, interlock, and purl variants. Rib offers elasticity, interlock increases thickness and stability, and purl adds texture.

Notation Details

In single jersey, technical front and back are displayed separately in knit notation. You’ll also see a technical face as “x x x” and with a different structure for the back. On the other hand, double jersey notations indicate symmetry, like the x 0 x x 0 0 0 pattern repeats for front and back. These notations help you to read fabric behavior and structure while designing or planning technical aspects.

Cost Differences

Single jersey fabric is the more economical option if you’re budget-conscious. It uses less yarn, is easier, and requires less machinery, and also less production time. Double jersey costs more due to higher material usage, longer machine operation and dual needle machinery. The additional expense however brings its benefits in quality, structure and longevity.

Pros and Cons of Each Fabric Type

Pros

• Lightweight Feel

Single jersey fabric will feel lighter and more flexible. Perfect for warmer weather and breathable easy to wear garments.

• Cost-Effective Option

Single jersey will help you save money if you’re managing a budget. It also requires less material and less processing time, which makes it an ideal option for large scale, cheap clothing lines.

• Great Breathability

With single jersey, you will have better airflow. This is why it is a top choice for activewear, casual T-shirts, or anything meant to be comfy.

• Perfect for Casual Wear

For instance, if you’re designing everyday basics like tees or tanks, this fabric will provide the softness and drape that you need, without complicating the production process too much.

Cons

• Tends to Curl at the Edges

Curling along the edges will be something you’ll have to deal with a lot of when you are cutting and sewing. In that case, this can slow production or distort the final product.

• Less Structural Stability

The single jersey does not hold its shape well under pressure. In garments used often, you may see sagging or misshaping, and over time.

• Thinner and Less Insulating

Lightweight as it is, this fabric is not suitable for colder climates. You will need to layer or choose another material if you are concerned with warmth.

• Can Appear Less Refined

Single jersey may not offer what you want in premium or high end apparel, with its polished, structured look.

Double Jersey Fabric

Pros

• Durable and Long-Lasting

Double jersey fabric stands up to wear. This is the fabric you can rely on if you’re creating pieces that should last.

• No Curling at the Edges

There’s no need to wrestle with edge curling. This saves you time and produces cleaner results because the fabric lies flat during cutting and sewing.

• Superior Structural Balance

Double jersey is great if you want a refined, symmetrical look. This gives a crisp finish and consistent shape even after multiple washes.

• Better for Warmth

This thicker fabric will provide you with more insulation. It does a good job of trapping heat, and so it is suitable for use as outerwear or in garments suited to cooler temperatures.

Cons

• Higher Cost

Double jersey is made with more yarn and takes longer on the machine. This could make your expenses go up if you are running a cost sensitive operation.

• Heavier Weight

You’ll find more weight in the fabric, which could cramp its comfort in hot or humid climates. Not ideal for lightweight summer apparel.

• Reduced Breathability

It’s strong and stable, but lacks the airflow of single jersey. This may result in the garment feeling warmer or less comfortable in active settings.

6. Choosing the Right Fabric: Key Considerations

1. Intended End-Use

Begin by understanding how the garment will be worn. Single jersey can be great for lightweight T’s or activewear for its breathability and comfort. If you need strength and shape retention for structured garments like jackets or hoodies then double jersey is the knit for you.

2. Climate and Thermal Insulation

Think about the weather. Single jersey is airy enough for warm climates. Double jersey however, offers better insulation suitable for colder conditions.

3. Budget Constraints

Single jersey is the way to go if you’re on tight budgets. Less material is used and it can be made quicker. Double jersey is more expensive but it is more durable and also has a different finish.

4. Garment Style and Drape

Fabric should match style. Single jersey drapes well for casual looks. Double jersey is formed; good for structured designs.

5. Machine Compatibility

Check your machinery. Not all setups will support both fabrics. Before production you need to ensure that it’s compatible.

Single Jersey Fabric Vs Double Jersey Fabric – Side-by-Side Comparison Table

Which One Should You Choose?

Based on Use Case

Go with single jersey. This is lightweight, breathable, soft fabric — perfect for everyday wear. Single jersey is most often the fabric used for everyday T-shirts because it drape well, feels good against the skin, and keeps costs low. Single jersey is your best friend if you brand is all about basics, fast moving styles, summer apparel.

You’ll want double jersey. Its added thickness, strength and stability makes it perfect for hoodies, jackets or high end knitwear. It gives you that nice smooth clean finish you get on both sides and makes it feel like a premium product. This is the way to go if you want to offer long lasting, Luxury clothing.

Based on Budget

Stick with single jersey. It is easy to produce, inexpensive, and readily available. It helps you minimize risk, while still producing decent quality for small runs, rapid turns over, or limited collections.

Double jersey is well worth the investment. Yes it is more expensive, but you’ll get durability, richer texture and better structure. Double jersey helps you meet your customers’ expectations—and if you’re charging more, that’s what they expect.

Conclusion

Knowing the structural and performance differences between a single jersey fabric and double jersey fabric enables you to make more intelligent design and manufacturing decisions. The knitting method of each fabric has a great impact on its durability, appearance and usability. Breathable, budget-friendly styles in single jersey suits are available and double jersey provides a more structured, luxurious look. Think about what your garment is for, the technical conditions and size of your budget. When you align these factors, you will choose the right fabric that fulfills your goals and your customers needs.